Sunday dawned bright and crisp in Winnipeg. Following a shared breakfast, Archbishop Albert and I set out for a 24+ hour away time.
Our first destination was a Mass and Blessing in Richer, Manitoba. Richer is about an hour’s drive south and east of St. Boniface. Formerly a community whose life was sustained by the timber industry, many of its historic buildings are timbered by massive beams and joists, hand-hewn and lovingly set. Today, the timber industry in the area is fallow. In fact, the prairie flat countryside belies that there was a timber industry, for what trees exist here are predominantly aspen, birch, and fir.
The church, Enfant-Jésus (Infant Jesus) dominates the town as the tallest building (not unlike many 19th century rural churches throughout Canada and United States). It is very attractive in its simplicity.
Enfant-Jesus, Richer, Manitoba (photo courtesy of Marcel Gauthier, secretary of the Enfant-Jésus Heritage Site )
The parish which once called this structure home was closed about 15 years ago. It was, as all such closings, a painful moment in the life of the members. The people were invited to became a part of the parish in St. Anne’s, Manitoba. However, they never lost their love or attachment to their ancestral home. They are predominantly Metis; it was their forebears who founded, built and therein encountered the Lord through the Sacraments, catechesis and a strong community bound in faith in this place. 15 years hence, there remains a vibrant presence surrounding this structure and place. After 10 years of weekly, fervent prayer by a group of elderly folks whose hope was never shaken (but whose lives on this earth were rapidly moving into the next), the grand-dame of the group called together folks and told them that unless younger folk began to lead… Well, the point was clear; the result was a Heritage Committee comprised of younger active folk who have made the place a Heritage Site (equivalent to U.S. Registered Historical Landmark). Each year the Archbishop comes to Enfant-Jésus to celebrate Mass at this historic site, which at all other times is a museum (boards which hold the artifacts, photos, and other memorabilia are placed on the pews for display). This particular day, however, the site vibrates with energy, for Monsigneur (the French address for a bishop) is present to pray with the people and to ask God’s blessings upon their preservation efforts and upon a new monument in the cemetery (see below). We were very warmly welcomed by Marcel Gauthier and others upon our arrival, who escorted us to the sacristy. The interior of the church was cleary ready for this day! The Archbishop went about his preparations with the organizers and the various liturgical ministers (he does not travel with a Master of Ceremonies) to be sure that we would be able to pray well together. He enlisted my help; I was pleased to assist my friend and these good folk.
The liturgy was a wonderful blending of very familiar English hymns (How Great Thou Art, for one) and traditional French hymns and songs. Appropriately, French and English alternated (almost all present were bi-lingual) — not repeating what was said in another language but flowing from the one to the other. The Archbishop’s homily, based on the readings of the day was in English (except for the joke in French at the beginning which went right by me!); it was excellent. His remarks which followed in French addressed the work of the Committee and his thanks to them (I was able to understand the basics, in part due to a few words which I caught, and the Archbishop’s hand gestures — which are numerous when he speaks French! Never let it be said that language is only verbal).
Following the final blessing, we processed to the cemetery. There we were to bless a new memorial monument to two of the founders of the community, and the cemetery as well (already blessed, but Albert feels its good to remind and renew when possible our dedication and focus to the resurrection through our cemeteries). The air was brisk outside, the assembly bundled, and the mood festive!
The text of the monument reads (hold on, this will be my translation of the French! Aiee!) Michaud Favreau In 1903 — Pierre Michaud made a gift of 17 acres for the parish of Enfant-Jesus. On 7 January 1904 – with his spouse, Helene Favreau – theirs was the first marriage celebrated at Enfant-Jesus. Helene Favreau was a wise woman. Born in 1898 in Rouen, France Died 5 February 1944 in Richer, Manitoba Pierre Michaud was a sheep farmer Born in 1867 in Limouziniere, France Left this life 1948, Wade, Ontario. For the Glory of God
No Christian-Catholic celebration of this size just “ends”; there must be food involved! We repaired to the local senior citizens center for a meal hosted by the Heritage Committee with the assistance of the local senior citizens. The room was packed. A spirit of celebration abounded. Waiting for the pastor to arrive (he had the 11:00am Mass at the parish), water, tea, coffee and other beverages were shared. The waiting allowed a wonderful opportunity to meet members of the community, the committee, and the grand -dame of the prayer group who was a guest of honor (92,she had just been released from the hospital, so her presence was doubly welcomed; she was a dear, determined but kind woman by whom I was touched). The warmth of everyone toward me was overwhelming; their joy that the Archbishop was present and evidently enjoying his time with them — well, to a person they spoke of their love and thanks for him. As in any community in the Americas, conversations of national origin arise. I met folk directly from Germany and France, many Metis, and folks whose origin was the United States. The conversations moved freely from French to English and back again; it didn’t matter what language you were able to speak, someone was ready to converse! Everyone, as people who value their heritage both lingual, ancestral, and credal, were making “connections”. I count this experience with these folk as a highlight of my sabbatical! The meal was very good; simple fare of ham and egg salad sandwiches, fresh homemade soups, and of course, cake! Our leave-taking brought us to the car, delighted to have been able to be with these folks; but it was time for a few hours of respite — we were tired. That tired served us well, as it allowed (and encouraged) us to visit along the way through wide-ranging conversations of content and depth. Our respite’s destination was Albert Beach (not named for my friend; but an appellation which everyone remarks upon when they arrive: “Albert, already they are naming things for you”!) Located on Lake Winnipeg, Albert Beach is west and north of Fort Alexander, very near the top of the “mitt” protruding into the southern tip of Lake Winnipeg (Lost or confused? See the map at the beginning of the entry “St. Boniface and Beyond, Part One”, to find Fort Alexander and work the directions from there). The sun had taken to hiding behind a cloud front (quite the change from the earlier sunny day with blue clouds!) by the time we arrived. The cottage sits back from the road, just south of the beach itself, nestled among pine and birch / aspen. Built on Archdiocesan land (formerly a youth camp site) by and for Archbishop Hacault (two prior to Albert), the cottage was bequeathed to the Archdiocese upon his death in 2000. What a wonderfully remote, QUIET place! Archbishop Albert, having grown up on a farm, delights in the outdoors. It was readily evident to me that this is an ideal place for him to periodically unwind, rest, walk, and read. His family enjoys sharing it with him during the summer. A local, year-round neighbor keeps an eye on the place and has it basically ready when the Archbishop arrives, which translates to “the heat was thankfully on”. Quickly unpacking, Albert showed me around, explaining where to find things and how to flush the toilet. (Thewater is off for the season. The toilets, similar to an airliner toilet, empty into a pump-out tank set out from the house. One uses buckets of water to “flush”. Simple, workable, effective. Almost rustic — for me, as rustic as I want to get!) We both settled in for a brief nap, and once that need was exhausted, went for a stroll on the beach (short, as the wind was biting). Continued our excursion on the local roads, Albert pointing out neighbors, telling the history of the land, and what it’s like here when it’s 40 below (which is the same in Farenheit and Centrigrade!) After a good 45 minutes, we wound our way to the General Store to bey a few needed food items and rent a couple of movies. Back at the cabin, Albert navigated the DVD / TV system, and soon we were watching the third in the Pirates of the Caribbean series. Neither of us had seen it, and as sequels go, it was a sequel.
The movie ended; our hunger arose. Choices are few in this remote area for eating out (it’s not season, so pizza delivery is done until the late spring!) And so we drove to South Beach Casino on the Brokenhead Ojibway Nation Reserve. The buffet offered what we needed — good food, lots of it, with a variety to please. Best of all, they gave us the senior discount (when did I start enjoying this perk? Not long ago, I’d like to say, but that would not be true). With the barely-muted cacophony of electronic slot machines in the background, we ate well. Our drive through the starless night (very dark!) was unremarkable (no deer sightings). Our arrival afforded us a brief “goodnight”, for fatigue was well engaged. As we were to learn the next morning, we both slept very soundly. Monday Morning – One of the delights of being together as priests is sharing prayer through the Liturgy of the Hours. Though both were a bit groggy, enough sand had slipped from our eyes for lucid and joined prayer. I thank God for such moments. Breakfast was simple — toast, cereal, fruit; and coffee (Albert hates coffee, but indulged my need, happily is shared by members of his family). Personal hygiene, packing, and caring for the closing of the cabin followed.
Departing with garbage and DVD’s in hand (the former for the communal dumpster, the latter for return to the General Store), we were soon on the road for the 45 minutes or so back to Winnipeg and St. Boniface. Monday Afternoon – The Archbishop had a number of appointments this particular afternoon. His very helpful secretary, Alice, assisted me with some maps so that I could go exploring.
I was wanting to learn the process by which money is created, especially coinage. The coins in Canada resemble U.S. coins, but are of different size, weight, etc., and some bear the portrait of the Queen. (Secretly, I harbored a hope there might be free samples!) The routing was direct enough for me to arrive in time for the 1:30pm tour. Sadly, the building was closed! It appears the tours didn’t operate that Monday (no matter what the website claimed). Returning to St. Boniface much earlier than expected, I took advantage of the dazzlingly bright day for more photos of the Cathedral. From there it was a short walk to the Grey Nuns’ Convent, housing Le Musee de Saint-Boniface. This is “Winnipeg’s oldest building…. built for the Grey nuns who arrived in the Red River Colony in 1844”. “[T]he structure is an outstanding example of Red River frame construction. The museum presents an impressive collection of artifacts tha reveal the lives and culture of the Francophone and Metis population of Manitoba…” (quoted text from Museum brochure).
One of the more remarkable features of the museum is the display of structural members (timber) which form the walls, beams and joists. The building becomes, in actuality, an integral part of the museum!
The history of the French-speaking populations of Manitoba, as the brochure stated, is well told in the displays of artifacts and the explanatory boards accompanying them. The arduous life of the early settlers was not unlike the life of such in the United States.
Much and more was displayed — historical figures, the role of the Church in the lives of the early settlers, the construction, loss of, and reconstruction of the five cathedral churches of St. Boniface. It was a goodly time spent reading, taking in, and wondering at the extraordinary challenges and opportunities the folks of this province lived. There is always a point for me when museums and sightseeing become a blur — too much information! That time arrived, and so I stepped out into the bright sun and strolled back to the Archbishop’s House, there to perch myself in the second-floor living room to read and muse. Once freed from his earlier obligations, the evening began for us a mixture of conversations before and during dinner (a local restaurant specializing in pizza and salad). An evening meeting with some advisors (ah, the of an Archbishop) ensued for Albert; I spent the time reading, and then alternating between the World Series and Monday-Night Football. Eventually, the latter part of the evening brought us together again f0r scotch, fruits, vegetables, cheese and crackers. Knowing this was our final evening together, we seemed to hold dear the moments as they carried us toward an evening adieu. Tuesday – What can be said to conclude? Tuesday dawned, packing took place, the fast was broken, plans were made for an adventure in February in the States, and after embraces and thanks, Alice ferried me through the streets of Winnipeg to the airport. Customs cleared and passport stamped, the flights home deposited me in Chicago and thence, Louisville. Luggage retrieved, car found and then “bailed out” of the parking garage (it surely seemed, at a cost of $15.00 per day, to be a “bail out”!), the ride back to St. Meinrad was filled with the warmth of friendship and the promise of another connection.
Pastor of St. Margaret Mary and St. Patrick Catholic Churches, Terre Haute, IN
Dean of the Terre Huate Deanery (serving West Central Indiana) in the Archdiocese of Indianapolis.
Must reply to the comment of… “(I was able to understand the basics, in part due to a few words which I caught, and the Archbishop’s hand gestures — which are numerous when he speaks French! Never let it be said that language is only verbal).” Language is never only verbal Father or there would not be SIGN LANGUAGE (Which I use over 50% of the time.). I got a good chuckle over that!! I enjoy reading the entries and the pictures are breath taking, good eye!!!
thpastor 
Must reply to the comment of… “(I was able to understand the basics, in part due to a few words which I caught, and the Archbishop’s hand gestures — which are numerous when he speaks French! Never let it be said that language is only verbal).” Language is never only verbal Father or there would not be SIGN LANGUAGE (Which I use over 50% of the time.). I got a good chuckle over that!! I enjoy reading the entries and the pictures are breath taking, good eye!!!
Tammy:
Thanks for your comment. I am pleased you have enjoyed the entries and the photos. Back in TH this Monday.
Fr. Rick